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Share your BREAKTHROUGHS, share the STOKE!
In this section, we like to share the results of our community. Surfing, as we all know, is an extremely challenging, complex sport. It involves swimming, breath holding, Breathing in all forms, stability, mobility, amazing coordination, ocean reading, and connection with the ocean. So even making the smallest progress in your surfing journey, IS SOMETHING TO CELEBRATE ABOUT! Regardless of your surfing level, share the stoke with the community! ⬇️ I´ll go first! As many of you might know, I did not grow up being a surfer. I grew up in the city, far away from the ocean, but always felt a deep connection with water. Every time I had access to a pool, I would dive to the bottom and stay down there for as long as possible. Absolute silence. Just me and the water. Always found such a profound state of calmness down there. Long story short, I could have never imagined my life making such a big turn and ending up living on the beach, surfing every single day of my life. I moved to Costa Rica in 2016, when I was 22, and started surfing at that age. In 2019, I went for the very first time to Puerto Escondido, one of the heaviest beach breaks in the world. Although I was physically and mentally prepared, I was afraid. Fear is not something to be hidden, you just need to know how to manipulate it, understand it, and use it to your favor. Being respectful of the ocean is not something to be ashamed of. It took me 3 days to get in the water. Just seeing the size of the breaking waves felt unreal. I have never witnessed so much power from a short distance. As I was starting to realize that this "respect" was slowly morphing into "I don´t know if I am ready for this", I realized I had to find a way to get more confidence and just go for it. I went to the nearest shop, bought some fins (the ones that bodyboarders use), went back home to get my GoPro, and went into the lineup. Funny enough, I am not scared of the water itself. It is just the respect I have for such a powerful wave. On top of that: an unknown break, with multiple horror stories, was not very motivating.
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Share your BREAKTHROUGHS, share the STOKE!
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Underwave Training
skool.com/underwave-training-6904
Surf smarter! Explore our community for tailored training in surf-specific breathing, breath holding, and swimming to elevate your surfing experience!
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