California swell was epic!
Merry Christmas board brothers and sisters! We were blessed with a major swell in California for this season! I took great advantage of this opportunity! Although I am a beginner, and I have no business surfing 10+ ft waves, it pulled me out of my comfort zone. I ventured off to other beaches with reefs that could handle the large waves, and it was so worth it. I caught a lot of white wash waves, they were packed with power behind them. I got a ton of paddling in, and I practiced reading the waves and watching seasoned surfers. If you are learning, just know their are no bad days. You can benefit greatly by just putting in the time and watching your environment. If you fail, fail forward. Meaning: taking risks, embracing wipeouts, is all beneficial to the learning process. God bless 🤙🏽